These are truffle infused fries. Idaho's in the back. Yukons in the front. They were made by cooking batonnets sous-vide (vacuum sealed potato, truffle oil, sea salt, black pepper) at 83C for 2 hours, then frying. They can be frozen after the first cooking.
Given that making really good french fries require cooking twice (once slow, then hotter), I realized that I had never tried frying the 83C potatoes. Knowing that I cook infuse flavor into them, many possibilities were obvious... one being truffle fries. Sure, you could always dust fries with truffle salt, but these were infused throughout. I'm sure some flavor is lost from the violence of frying at high temperatures, but the texture was interesting.
The 83C cooking temp breaks down the starch, but leaves the cellulose intact. Frying simply crisps it up. It's almost like the potato is melted and creamy but with texture intact. The truffle flavor was not pungent, but deeply imbedded. No extra salt or pepper was necessary.
love it...now time to try infusing with smoke/bacon/country ham before frying.
side question, have you tried cooking the potatoes in their skins at 65 C then cooling and cutting and cooking as fries. I would enjoy hearing/seeing your comparison and since you have a multitude of fryers, I figured well, you would be game.
this is how we were cooking/smoking/frying smoked french fries
Posted by: H. Alexander Talbot | 13 July 2008 at 09:22 AM
That fry looks amazing.
Is it just the photo or did the Idaho spud fry up a bit a better?
Posted by: Karen | 13 July 2008 at 11:36 AM
The Idaho and Yukon just have different natural colors. I couldn't pick a favorite of the 2, but I love them both for what they are.
Alex, for the 65C potato, are you poaching them in water at 65C or vacuum sealing them with oil/seasoning/smoke/etc to cook in a 65C water bath before cooling and cutting? I love the mashed potato crouton idea. Fried bites of creamy potato soup. What's next... fried porridge? Could be a fun play on fried rice.
And actually, contrary to assumption, we only have 2 fryers in the hotel (one for high heat frying, the other a little cooler) and they get abused to hell and beyond (all those chicken tenders and fries). I'd get cleaner flavors playing with my little Europro at home.
Posted by: chadzilla | 14 July 2008 at 09:36 AM
I have contemplated mashed potato croutons when making potato puffs like mom used to - left over mashed taters, a little baking powder, a little flour, and some green onions. My kids love them. I suppose you could eliminated the baking powder and get a more dense potato, and I am sure there is some starch in your arsenal that would yield better results than flour.
Posted by: syoung68 | 14 July 2008 at 12:07 PM
Not to answer for Alex, but when we did the potato chains they were "blanched" in a water bath at 65degrees for 15 minutes, removed, cooled, then fried. The delicate nature of the chains forbid the use of a vacuum machine. I would assume if you were going to infuse the pots with different spices or flavorings then the cryovac would be the best option.
Posted by: chris | 15 July 2008 at 02:01 AM
uh... when did this happen? why wasn't I invited?
Truffled fries sounds good, but isn't the Michael Mina standard now duck fat fries? Wonder if you could use some of that gizmo you gave Fabian and use it on your fries for crispness. Sort of like what Burger King did a few years back. Might be an interesting experiment.
Just invite me next time!
Posted by: steven | 28 July 2008 at 12:00 AM
uh... when did this happen? why wasn't I invited?
Truffled fries sounds good, but isn't the Michael Mina standard now duck fat fries? Wonder if you could use some of that gizmo you gave Fabian and use it on your fries for crispness. Sort of like what Burger King did a few years back. Might be an interesting experiment.
Just invite me next time!
Posted by: steven | 28 July 2008 at 12:02 AM